LPM - Life

Fuji G690 BLP And More Internet Nonsense....

Fri, 22 Mar 2024 22:38:00 +0000

My new toy for today, I had to buy it, not even sure how it turned up in my EB search but it did and now it's here.

I've yet to see a bad review for the Lens and by some accounts the 100mm f3.5 that seems to be its standard lens is by far one of the best for it and it was one of the reasons I impulsely bought it, as it said the lens was clean, a good start.

For a 54 year old Camera it needs some TLC and as you can see it's had a life, the mount ring behind the Focus ring is supposed to be black in colour and the Shutter and Aperture No.s are faded but it works and it has clean glass and that's all that matters.

The Rangfinder needs fettling and the paintwork needs some attention but it would be easy to repaint it and make it look all nice and shiny but that would remove the scars of the beautiful life it has had and will be mostly left as it is, the only thing that bugs me is the frame around the Viewfinder on the front, that will be cleaned upand repainted just as a little cosmetic tart up.

So whats all the nonsense about....

Upon doing a little research I came across some comments about the Camera that reall pissed me off, they were just the opinion of one person but were just silly and I'll show you what I mean:

"Mythology of the Fuji G690BL GL690 GM670"

July 6, 2010. There are some things floating around on the internet that tend to inflame people's imaginations and inflate asking prices for the G series cameras and their lenses (G690, G690BL, GL690, GM670) We'll address each of these categorically. Maybe you can save some money. Maybe this will make your G-lust worse.

1. "I need a 6x7 or 6x9 camera." Yes, you probably need one like you need a hole in your head. Most people should think twice (or more):

At least up to an 8x10 enlargement, you won't see any difference between a 6x7 or 6x9 camera and a 6x4.5.
A 6x7 or 6x9 enlarger is about double the size of a 35mm/6x6 dual model.
There are only 8 to 10 shots per roll of film. If you buy film at B&H and develop/print at A&I, that means your pictures cost $2.00+ apiece. That's a bit of money to drop per frame when it isn't 4x5.
Even if you develop your own film, it's still $6 for the film and chemicals, which makes for 75 cents a frame - before any prints.
Not only is the bulk of the camera double that of, say, a GA645, you're also carrying twice as much film for a given number of scenes.
The 6x9 format (like 35mm) is not a great fit for the sizes of photo paper sold in the United States. If you need a full frame but also need something to overlap with a mat, you get a 6x9" image on 8x10 paper. To get a picture 8" wide (horizontal frame) requires 11x14 paper which costs about a dollar a sheet. To do the same thing with 6x7 only takes an 8x10 sheet.

OK, so lets make it clear and add the corrections:

"Mythology of the Fuji G690BL GL690 GM670"

July 6, 2010. There are some things floating around on the internet that tend to inflame people's imaginations and inflate asking prices for the G series cameras and their lenses (G690, G690BL, GL690, GM670) We'll address each of these categorically. Maybe you can save some money. Maybe this will make your G-lust worse.

1. "I need a 6x7 or 6x9 camera." Yes, that's my choice so what has it got to do with you?

At least up to an 8x10 enlargement, you won't see any difference between a 6x7 or 6x9 camera and a 6x4.5. (So what!}
A 6x7 or 6x9 enlarger is about double the size of a 35mm/6x6 dual model. (So what!}
There are only 8 to 10 shots per roll of film. If you buy film at B&H and develop/print at A&I, that means your pictures cost $2.00+ apiece. That's a bit of money to drop per frame when it isn't 4x5. (It's not your money so.....)
Even if you develop your own film, it's still $6 for the film and chemicals, which makes for 75 cents a frame - before any prints. (It's not your money so.....)
Not only is the bulk of the camera double that of, say, a GA645, you're also carrying twice as much film for a given number of scenes. (So what!}
The 6x9 format (like 35mm) is not a great fit for the sizes of photo paper sold in the United States. If you need a full frame but also need something to overlap with a mat, you get a 6x9" image on 8x10 paper. To get a picture 8" wide (horizontal frame) requires 11x14 paper which costs about a dollar a sheet. To do the same thing with 6x7 only takes an 8x10 sheet. (So what! Not everyone lives in the US and have you never heard of composition and or a sharp knife to trim the paper or where does it say it has to be 8" wide.....}

The silly article then goes on about how cheaply made they were....And yet here we are, 54 years later, still working and still producing breathtaking negs/trans as the day it was released.

If you want to try something take NO notice of anyone else, no one, just try it yourself and make up your own mind and the cost of my choices on this occasion was just £100 for the Camera and Lens.

The Nikon Series E 70-150mm 1:3.5 - A Misguided Dumb Myth

Tue, 06 Feb 2024 13:01:00 +0000

If you follow Nikon History or are interested in Photography to a certain level or frequent certain forums, you'll read all about this Lens and the famous picture that started it all, it didn't really but like any good drama you have to make shit up....

"Rainbow over the Potala Palace" © Galen Rowell *Used for review purposes

Let's get straight to the point shall we, the Photographer could have used a cardboard tube with bits of glass in it and got a good picture (A little exaggeration for effect but you know what I mean), this picture is what should be talked about and the Photographers skill, it's also about timing not just the Lens.

Why doesn't anyone talk about the Camera or what shoes he had on, simply because the Internet feeds on drama and has made it some sort of reference picture for a Lens that has always been able to take good images, then add some misguided forum users or reviewers to add fuel to the fire and before you know it, the whole point of this beautiful picture is lost in Internet bullshit.

Things like...."It was a true classic back then..." Duh!

The Lens doesn't know or care when you use it, it will always be and do what it is, a decent lens in the right hands.

Kiron 70-150mm f/4 - It Has Landed....

Sat, 03 Feb 2024 23:07:00 +0000

Well, well, well, what a lovely lens, let the pics do the talking, what a fascinating hood design, when you are not using it, you reverse the hood onto the lens and it clips into the filter thread, then the front cap goes on like normal but it stops the hood from being able to be removed when not being used, it's pretty clever.

It's well built and you feel confident using it, I quickly tried it on a Nikon FE and a Nikon D1H for feel and focus and it is really very nice, I'll post some pics when I get a spare 5 mins.

For £17 no one in their right mind should turn one down, I don't really care for others opinions in general about gear as they are not using my gear so their gear isn't the same and all I'm interested in is the end result, wether it costs £5 or £5K, is 5 or 50 rs old, I couldn't care less, it doesn't make me a better photographer, what does is, understand how things work and a little bit of 45yrs of learning.

YAEBSL - Yet another Ebay Seller Lying....

Wed, 31 Jan 2024 00:27:00 +0000

Oh dear, how desperate must you be to lie about a Light Meter to get a few more quid than its real worth....Sad and desperate methinks, check this crap out....

This is not a Sekonic L398 and never will be, don't believe me:

Yes, historically there's a link but see the dates, Norwood Model B - 1948 / Sekonic L398 - 1978, there's a 30 year difference and to suggest a Model B is a Sekonic L398 is just a deliberate lie to try and increase the value of a Meter that is worth no more than £15-£20 at best, my complete and boxed Norwood Model C was £13.44 Delivered....

Not hard to check:

http://www.jollinger.com/photo/meters/meters/norwood_directorB.html

New EB addition, just had to....Kiron 70-150mm f4 - £17 WOT!

Mon, 29 Jan 2024 23:45:00 +0000

Remember this quicky from the other day, cost £35 delivered and it really is mint, just some very slight stiffness near the end of the Zoom but that could loosen with useage, we'll see, so then I was bored earlier and saw the Kiron....

Kiron 70-150mmm f4 NAI

So, a 35-70mm and a 70-150mm all for £55 to the door (£3 Postage for the Kiron), what a perfect combo, the Kiron takes 52mm Filters just to fit with all my Nikon Filters which are mostly 52mm, even thinking of picking up a Kiron Reverse Mate (55mm) (I don't like 52mm > 55mm Adapters) then both can be reversed in the field (Have a BR2A) and still only carry it all in my pockets if I need to be discreet or lazy, plus the Nikon BR3 can be added for Filters, Hoods or a bit more protection.

Geez what a no brainer, Oh and who cares about pointless tests and AF and Pixel Bollox, that's not what Photography is about AT ALL, if you think so, then leave now....

I've stopped reading silly forum posts and reviews etc as they don't really mean anything, some tech info can be handy, except show people are really bored or boring....It's a bit like posting Pics of what you had for tea on Social Media....Imagine going to the Pub before the brain numbing internet with a Pic of you tea and shown it to your mates, you'd be sat in the corner, alone, while people threw things at you....And don't get me started on Ken Notwell, he really is....

Don't Let The Money Stop you Having Fun....My Latest EB Buys....

Sat, 13 Jan 2024 15:23:00 +0000

Funny how I only mentioned the Nikon E Series Lenses the other day and today was lucky to find this:

Nikon 50mm f1.8 AI

Cost, £28 delivered....I've been looking for an AI one for a while now at the right price, as I mentioned earlier, nothing really wrong mechanically with an E Lens but I'd rather use this, than that....Plus this will add value to my collection and possibly increase slightly in value after a good service, why did I want one....It's for use on the PB-5 Bellows, by some accounts on the www this is a perfect match for the PB-5, especially reversed, we'll see, plus it's considered by some to be Nikons best 50mm ever....

Next up is this hump of metal:

Manfrotto 338 Levelling Base

Come on, a perfect platform for Panoramas or Landscapes all for £13.29 inc delivery, it's a no brainer if you need one, go look at what others want for them, think this is already my bargain of the year, it's meaty, heavy, simple to maintain and easy to operate, what more could one want from their gear.

And for now, the best till last, almost....

Nikon PK-11A Extension Tube

In the UK these are a pain to find cheap, my PK-12 & PK-13 only cost me £12 for both but this bad boy was £30 delivered, whilst one might think that's not really a bargain, trust me, here it is, I'm also happy now as this completes the Set, PK-11A/PK-12/PK-13, all nice and warm inside now, it did take me a few months to find a decent one cheap enough but as I say, a lot, patience has its rewards.

The almost....At the time the only one on EB

£35 through the door....

This is a fully manual lens
Focus works
Iris works
Zoom works (tiny bit stiff)
No haze
No fungus
No notable dust
No scratches

Some nice usable gear well within my budgets.

Nikon E Series Lens - Don't Pay For The Hype....(Short III)

Sat, 06 Jan 2024 15:50:00 +0000

There is nothing predominantly wrong with Nikon E Series Lenses, they have an acceptable build quality, my small Zoom is lovely, and the glass is, well glass....I don't like how cheap they feel (I don't mean cheap as in nasty as that isn't true, but to the personal touch) compared to an original non E Lens, the 70-150mm Zoom is nice, light and perfectly usable but I'd rather use my 80-200mm f4 AIS or f4.5N as they just feel better to me but regardless of that personal choice, it doesn't change the fact most E Series Lenses are overpriced.

There's a saying if you've heard of it....'It's only worth what someone will pay....' which might make sense in some peoples lives but not here, I'm not really a subscriber of paying the 'going rate' for things, I don't support sites that try and manipulate increased unrealistic second hand prices for increased fees, I pay what I think something is worth not necessarily what others think it's worth, which don't always align but I nearly always buy what I need in my budget.

Not just Camera gear either, I own about 30 Guitar Pedals and never paid EB/Greedverb/Anyotherott prices for any of them, many I've not paid more than £30 for and most are worth more now, if I sold them, but it returns as if I do sell any I don't need loads of profit, if any, so they end up being sold quickly as they are usually below the 'going rate' and hopefully some other patient buyer is the lucky one to get it, remember what I said about timing and buying previously....

Is it April 1st....

Anyway, what I find silly is the ridiculous prices people try and get for these little bits of Nikon Technology, it's fantasy land, some dealers obviously have been drinking the Kool' Aid, why would anyone buy one for more than what the equivalent for their big brother, and better everything, relations fetch, would I rather have my all metal 28mm f3.5 Pre AI, which is like new, that cost me £20 or a £50+ second cousin.

Bit of a no brainer really, unless you are collecting them to get the set, I'd pay no more than £40 for any of them and for the common 50mm no more than £30 but go to EB now and see all the overpriced junk, everything has a price limit and I suppose most don't sell at the stupid prices but you know the saying, A fool and his money....

It's all down to the hype, the buzz, the one review from years ago that said they were amazing....They are the best thing since sliced bread....Blah blah, you know the deal....More internet nonsense. They do what they are meant to, but to suggest that any E Series Lens is worth more than a historic standard Nikon 50mm or whatever is as stupid as stupid comes, gift wrapped with a delusional bow, don't encourage it by buying them.

For now....

Adapting Adapter Things....PT II (Short II)

Fri, 22 Dec 2023 11:51:00 +0000

Just some more messing with things I picked up on my travels, I'll post loaned pics until the real thing turns up soon....

First up is this homemade interesting Olympus > M39/Dallmeyer (C Mount) Adapter that came with a set of AICO Bellows, more of those later, have a quick look first....

What you can't see is the solo mount is hand engraved 'Leica' and the underside one is engraved 'Ental / Dallmeyer '82 and the trio of holes you see allows them to be changed onto the Olympus Mount by tapped threads added to what looks like a nonhacked Olympus > 49mm Male Adapter, I'll add pictures later and all will be revealed to your eyeballs.

(The box contains an Olympus T-Mount and a Lensman Microscope Adapter)

You just unscrew the 3 straight machine screws to change either or for the desired effect, the Minolta EL tightened up but was loose whilst on the way, these adapters are Aluminium I think and have softer threads and over time they just relax a little and if they do ever become unusable, the Olympus Adapter has 49mm threads that are clean and still screw into the 49mm mount on the Glanz as a test and all is good.

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Let's have a quick look at these for a sec....

A set of Nikon Mounts for the Elicar Auto Bellows and according to the box, a later version, I've seen the same set but without the Aperture Ring, so it fits and what is interesting about these is they fit the AICO Auto Bellows as they share the same blueprints as the Elicar, mine came with an Olympus (OM) Set attached and the Auto function is also interesting, no matter the extension, the front and rear mounts are coupled with a simple 2 prong fork along the bottom of the rail that attaches to a small extended rod from the mount....

You can see the rod at 11ish O'Clock in the above pic and the front and rear forks for it to connect to are in the same position on the bellows....So of course, all giddy I possibly disastrously took off the rear Olympus Mount and tried the Nikon on for the maybes and it sort of worked, for a sec, sort of....When I make more of an effort I'll post my findings but up to now the only issue could be the travel for the coupling and its relationship to each makers Mounts but as we've been distracted....

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Next up is a simple, not what you might expect adapter, that brings old and new together which is handy if you use old and newer than that old gear, but as you've no idea what I'm talking about, here's a clue....

A Nikon MC-25, something I wasn't really looking for but was pointed to by a great article about using Nikon Bellows, the double cable with one cable closing the aperture, pre shutter release and the other cable releasing the shutter after that was done, there's a slight delay in each of the cable releases, you do need a MR-3 to go direct to Camera or as I do, with the MR-1, see below, this is what Nikon says about it:

The MC-25 Adapter Cord enables the use of two-pin remote accessories: Remote Cord MC-4A, Remote Cord MC-12B, and Terminal Release MR-3. And officially compatible with:

Z9 D800E D800 D4 D3 D3X D700 D300S D3S

It also worked fine with the F90X I tried it with, you should always try or ask as you'll never know, this thing doesn't need line of sight either and uses modern, easy to get batteries, (4xAA & 1xPP3) what it also doesn't say is, it works with an ML-1 (1976)

Yes the little cover for the sensor is missing but for now, perfectly usable.

All for the princely sum of £21....inc Delivery but it was a bit of a slog to get it, worth it but possibly nearly didn't....Let me quickly tell the tale....I saw the MC-25, as I said earlier in another article, and did a quick EB search and found this one with a SB of £3, so I saved it and noticed the ML-1 from the same seller, 2 saves later I moved on....After the reminder I saw no bids but at the end got distracted by home life and missed the end of the auction, it was still at £3 with no bids, so I messaged the seller asking if they were going to relist as I was interested and just missed it, while I was waiting I looked again and saw none, not even close, not sure of the release price but these are still available from Nikon for $125 AFAIK.

So it might seem expensive for a bit of wire and some connectors and either not a lot were sold or people don't get rid of them as there weren't any about for a good price when I looked. I got a reply a few days later saying that both items will be relisted but not sure when as he's really busy, fair enough, so I waited for 2 weeks before they showed up again, with the same starting prices (£3 & £15 ML-1) and were listed for.....10 Days! LOL....So I bid and waited and waited and won them both for the starting price, plus £3 for delivery, sometimes it just works out for you, unlike the, as new £40 55mm f2.8 Vivitar Macro that never turned up....(It eventually did turn up but will talk later about it) And sometimes it doesn't but I always take the view, that there will always be another....

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Let's move on....

Pentax 'A' Adapter

Pentax 'B' Adapter

The 'B' Adapter was alleged to be in the wrong box but I think the seller just thought the big A on the box was the designation for the type as it is the Type B version of this beautifully made piece of real metal, it's heavy and confident and is made to do one thing and do it well, whilst it might not seem exciting these adapters are hardish to find in this condition here in the UK, cheaply anyway, there are a newer version but who wants lightweight, softer metal in something that's a vital link to what you do.

I've read posts that claim these are not common to buy and if so then I've been lucky to find both, so close together and for under £20 through the door, and if not then they are still great value, they are deceivingly heavy for the size of them and reveal the heavy metal content which inspires confidence and warming of the heart, put it on, forget about it, you know it'll work.

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Oh yeah, I liked this one so much, I bought another....

I'll end this with a warning....I bought this to mess with, it's supposed to be an Olympus Set but the front fits a Nikon Mount!

Be wary of cheap knock off EB crap.

There's no such thing as a bad lens. (Short I)

Sat, 02 Dec 2023 12:22:00 +0000

Whatever you read on the www, including here, do not take it at face value but one thing that is quite clear is that some people need a gym membership or some more Weetabix in the morning.

The first thing is, there are no general use lenses that are too heavy, you'll see it all the time in older lens 'reviews' or Forum posts....Oooh it's too heavy, oooh it weighs more than a tin of beans, really, in what world can a few ounces or even a couple of lbs, in ratio to an average 12st of Human Mass and Muscle, of metal weigh you down, in what world does anyone carry a Camera up to their face constantly or in their hands all day, I would have thought not many and if required in your field of work then it's just part of that job and a skill to learn, like keeping both eyes open, so you can see what is going on outside of the view of the viewfinder, a useful method for Live Stage work as an example and from personal experience, a very useful method to learn.

That's what straps where invented for, geez even when I was trekking around on muddy Festival sites for 12 hours at a time did I moan about the weight of my gear, not really because, one, because I had a decent bag and two, a Camera strap that works to this day (O/T - 1990's) and three, I only took enough equipment to do the job at hand, this is area specific, I've seen some photographers weighed down by gear but that's because they take too much back up gear or just in case gear, but oooh look at that car, the wheels are too round....is funny.

You can take all your ultimately pointless pixel peeping and shove it, look at all the pixels you want, it won't make your pics any better, it won't make you more wise, it won't make you a better person or photographer, there are areas where it might mean something but in the real world, it means absolutely nothing, yet the www is full of tests and charts, it still means nothing when it's on the Camera and being used.

It's knowing your gear and using it within it's capabilities and its weaknesses to your advantage, you can get a good picture with any lens, how it turns out doesn't rely on the tests you've pointlessly, obsessively read, in fact it's not even the Camera you are using as they are a mechanical means to an end, and at the end of the day only perform the 3 main functions, if the idea isn't in your head then no amount of good or 'bad' gear will help you.

For now I'll leave you with some quotes from a Nikon Engineer:

But this is a characteristic of the lens, and cannot be dismissed as an out-and-out defect.

The aperture stop is normally used to control exposure, soft focus effects, and depth of field, but having an idea of the changes in imaging characteristics with variations in the aperture will enable you to get just that little extra from the lens characteristics. One object is to find the aperture which gives you just the kind of image you like.

It seems that every introductory book on photography includes a statement to the effect that: "A 50mm lens is the universal workhorse, that can function both as wide-angle and telephoto. But one could also say that by the very fact of being a universal lens it tends to fall between two stools, and learning to use such a lens to the full is actually rather difficult.

I often think of the 50mm lens as a "short medium-telephoto." Though trying to learn how to use it as a universal lens may be difficult, think of it as just one of a set of interchangeable lenses, and the possibilities remain vastIf you don't understand what these might lead to or encountered such thoughts about your equipment, then I think you're potentially not using your gear to its maximum capabilities, quality or usability....

Otherwise you need to adopt a manual technique. This is one of the difficulties in using vintage glass!

I've nothing against AF at all, it's a feature that is useful and makes some Photographers lives a more relaxing experience and easier when working, but personally I know how to use a lens manually, it's one of the first things I learned and if otherwise by others then becoming reliant on one technique or technology could limit ones progress in demanding situations, it allows a wider working safety net and possibly wider experiences, working in quiet environments is a positive example, and is also the preferred method used in Macro work, even with new AF advances, professionally or amateur, it matters not.

It's not difficult to manual focus at all, it can be a monotone learning curve as repetition is key, knowing your lens is important, there are different levels of need, I can for my needs but not to the level of, let's say, Bird in Flight Photography, I'd get lucky because focusing manually for me feels natural through practice, but not consistant, it would take only a few months though to move up a level as it's a progressive, repetitive method.

Don't get me wrong on not recommending this lens - I don't think it's hopeless, I'm just not sure of it's relevance in the digital age. It's not wide enough to be a proper landscape/wide lens - but of course has no reach either, and because of its f2.8 combined with a not-long 28mm, it doesn't throw backgrounds out particularly easily.

It's relevance isn't relevant, DSLR or SLR it is what it is, whatever the use, want wider landscapes, use a wider lens, plenty of landscape Photographers use a 28mm lens without issue, want reach, everyone knows, want a little reach, I find my Nikkor 85mm f2 is reach enough with a nice soft touch if I need it, without adding more glass, if it's hard to get the results you want then it's either broke, your not using it as it should be to get where you want or it's the wrong lens for the idea, if I want a little less reach then a 50mm f1.8 is perfect.

The older lens also renders pictures with more “character” but this is so subjective because some people either like or hate the look of pictures taken using older lenses and this has been the topic of debates for decades and I hope that this article will show you how this lens performs so you can make your own personal judgement.

You will want to use this with its dedicated lens hood to help protect the front element. It is also useful in helping to prevent stray light hitting the front element from an angle and that will prevent any ghosts and flares from appearing in your pictures. Digital cameras are more prone to ghosts than film because they reflect more light due to the protective glass in front of the sensor, this is why many manufacturers offer digital versions of their lenses some time in the early 2000s.

This lens is one of the best deals in portrait lenses today. This is a portrait photographer’s secret weapon and the value-to-performance ratio of this lens is very good. Once you see how this lens performs you will wonder why you will want to pay a more expensive lens. If you are fine with manual focusing then this lens will fill your portraiture needs! If you don’t believe me then please inspect my sample pictures and see for yourself! (Nikon 85mm f2)

From the experienced mind of Mr Richard Haw and his thoughtful and useful words, it is all personal, you'll be happier recalling this when 'listening' to others opinions and find his words in the last paragraph agreeable with my own opinion of my 26yr old 85/2.

A useful tip and shows he's experienced enough to be using the equipment to get the best out of it, that's important when learning or getting more interested in the more technically or engineering detail of Nikon equipment, the Lens itself is part of a system, designed to work together, always OEM when buying here, for a reason and noted is the limitation of the new technology at the time, knowing how something works is very useful.

If you are a Nikon fan of a certain level of interest you know who RW is and his thoughts are useful to consider when deciding on what one might either need a lens for a certain use or to purchase something for your personal collection.

A Personal Reference Site: https://richardhaw.com/

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I'll leave these here:

"Poor lenses can be used to make fine photographs, but how much more fun is it to use good lenses and not need to find ways around their shortcomings". David Ruether

Even an average Lens is better than most Photographers....

Adapting Adapter Things....

Thu, 23 Nov 2023 10:45:00 +0000

Just some bits aquired on my travels to mess with, that's what I love about things, there are no rules really, or silly 'You need to do it this way' templates to negate your freedom to choose, if they are usable though, is another quiz.

Let's start with this love it thing....

GLANZ 700 - 1000mm TELESHOTS P-ADAPTER VARI EXTENSION TUBE*

Circa: 1960-70s

The front has a homemade 42mm front threaded ring, which attaches to the original Extension Tube (Which is removable) with a 49mm rear thread, the front of the front tube is also a 49mm thread, as is the main body thread.

So already I can add 49mm Filters inline, between the front extension tube and the main body, nice, of course the bare 49mm thread could be then added to go to 52mm (*A Nikon Fav....) for a reverse lens set up....

That delicious knurled ring is big, easy to grip and easy to rotate, it feels a little dry but still smooth, nothing a little TLC wouldn't put right.

*The rear....A T-Mount fits perfectly, just....It has a groove in the ring for the screws to catch, just....

*With the front 49mm tube removed.

Quick fit test, needs a shim but yes, it's fit!

Once again, old meets new, to make good.

Let's guess what fits on the mount....Begins with T....

The base of it all, stability.

Sits middle balanced with Nikon M2 Extension and Nikon 36-72mm f3.5 Series E.

*The top of the Glanz does touch the top of the Camera near the nameplate if no Extension Tube is used.

Now to the nitty gritty things 1:

Glanz - £23.80
Nikon F Mount - £8.00
Nikon T-Mount - £6.00
My Options:
Manfrotto 120 - £8.29
Nikon M2 Ext Tube - Personal
Nikon 36-72mm f3.5 - Currently in the process of trying to sell it (With a nice Black FG) but it sits nice on this set up, I might try it reversed!
F90x for testing. - Personal

I'll come back to this because we had a delivery....

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This is lovely thing 2....

ERNST LEITZ WETZLAR GERMANY 16466M (late)*

Production era - 1959-1983

After looking tirelessly for a decent M39 Adapter for the Nikon experiments and drowned by cheap knockoffs from The Controller of all technology, I came across this beautiful piece of engineering from pre 1983, it's not an early one as that is just labelled OUBIO and not the engraved 16466M on later ones.

I know it wouldn't be hard to knock something together with many things but I'm a believer of, the less, the better, mechanically, for consistancy, and reliability, which means it's something I don't need to think about and can free some brain space for other things, on this occasion.

*The rear mount.

*Inc for free, a solid tripod mount with 2 size threads.

Sometimes simple works out best, unscrew 5 grub screws, pull off original mount, put on T-Mount, tighten up 3 grub screws....

When old and new work, with Nikon T-Mount.

Scale.

Mount me.

Rotating 45° Mount.

My Dream Come True.

It also opens up the knowledge that these adapters can be extremely versatile and a great base for similar mods, the added mount is a very nice convenience indeed....

Indeed it is.

Manfrotto 120 Base Plate, 16466M, Minolta E Rokkor 75mm f4.5

Now to the nitty gritty things 2:

16466M - £30.98
Nikon T-Mount - £6.00
My Options:
Manfrotto 120 - £8.29
Minolta E Rokkor 75mm f4.5 - £12.00

There are cheaper methods, but non look and feel as good as this.

Added: 04/12/23

First Hands On Thoughts

The tripod mount (3/8" & 1/4") on the complete assembled adapter is fine with a light Camera body (Nikon D70s), the added Nikon M² Extension Tube is light, keeps the body away from the tripod mount and it keeps the weight down but with strong enough mounts for this occasion.

Or mount the D70s, the whole adapter only weighs 288 grams (10.15 ounces) with the Minolta and gives it a nice handling characteristic, you just move the camera to focus, plenty to hold onto and just enough weight for some slower shutter speeds.

Stopping the Minolta down is instant and live and it's very easy to confidently work faster, if you want to, around a still subject and this would make a great set up to learn on, focusing, hand holding, slower shutter speeds.

Of course any of this is pointless without pics....

These are some results from testing the equipment and not 'Oooh look at that quality'. It's a view test, all subjects close together on the same table, to test moving from subject to subject, focus depth and handling. (Handheld, D70s, Manual, No Post, JPEG, Craft Light - Daylight Bulb - All but one @ 1/40th Sec)

I don't PP, I even don't like saying it, but nice enough without trying IMHO.

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*Temp sales pics until I update with my personal versions, this notice will be removed when that happens.